Archives for category: Fashion

A very different type of collage – I first came across Mat Maitland’s work when I saw his film for Kenzo Resort 2013 (see below). Full to the brim with prints and pattern it definitely caught my eye. But until recently I had never seen any of Maitland’s fashion stills – and I think they are great. I always love the sense of set used in product editorials but the digital element of these creates a sense of hyper-real and the slick collage style feels fresh and new.

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You can check out more of his work here: http://matmaitland.com/

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Dolce and Gabbana are well known for their ability to create a strong and irresistible narrative around their collections. Everything is tied together by a sense that there is a bigger picture. I completely fell for their SS12 campaign, which had such a powerful identity and really spoke to my imagination. However, I was really drawn in by their jewellery campaign. Aside from Bianca Balti looking mind-blowing, the photography style and the setting is so evocative. There is no doubt that the accompanying film was bordering on over-theatrical, but I love the idea that such a dense story can be installed into each piece of jewellery. But for me, I realise that the reason I am so drawn into this collection is because of a reference to Catolicism, and an over-all religious mysticism. This is not just due to the physical jewellery in itself, which relies so heavily upon religious charms and talismans. But the campaigns reference to a way of life and culture which has been defined through the ages by Catholism.

Dolce and Gabanna’s AW12 has just hit the catwalks. And true to form, seems to still look to Sicily for it’s inspiration and stories. Although based upon an incredibly over-embellished and decorative baroque, religious theme, there are still elements that draw me back to a sense of catholicism. The heavy gold embroidery, oversized needlepoint and thick, rich fabrics for me resonate with the Church and clerical cloth. Equally, the silhouettes that have been created from veils, long draped cloaks and ruffled necklines have a similar effect.

Versace’s AW12 collection has taken a slightly darker, and certainly less subtle approach to a similar theme. Glittering Byzantine crosses adorn practically any surface possible. The collection on the whole is incredibly theatrical, and harks to a gothic severity but with a modern stance.

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2012RTW-DGABBANA/
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2012RTW-VERSACE/
http://fashiongonerogue.com/bianca-balti-dolce-gabbana-jewelry-2011-campaign-giampaolo-sgura/

Freshly graduating from Ravensbourne College, Kit Neale’s first collection has just debuted in Fashion East’s menswear installation at London Fashion Week. Although London Fashion Week is hardly known for it’s subtlety, I really think Neale’s collection is bringing something very new to British Menswear, and seems to hark the arrival of a new freedom within this growing industry. This debut collection has already been widely spoken about, and to great acclaim. Although perhaps a little overwhelming when styled all together, I think the separate pieces are really tongue in cheek and wearable, and the prints are definitely unique.

http://www.kitneale.com/#

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashionweek/menswear/aw12/article/12772/1/exclusive-kit-neale-menswear-preview-aw12

The song is definitely catchy. But really, it is all about the video – the concept, some bizarre dance-moves and the crochet-crazed costumes.

Although perhaps slightly more obsessed with vintage knits, the obvious inspiration for this video, for me, must have been Nick Cave’s soundsuits. These, even now, are still a really great concept for me, and blur the lines through multiple creative disciplines. And on top of it all, they just look incredible.

Also, the video reminds me of a wonderful book of work by photographer Phyllis Galembo, entitled ‘Maske’. Galembo captures the spirit of Masqurade from all over Africa. The photographs are both unexpected and incredibly evocative. This is definitely worth a read: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/photography/8067153/Behind-the-masks-the-photographs-of-Phyllis-Galembo.html

http://seventeenevergreen.com/
http://flavorwire.com/76165/nick-caves-soundsuits
http://soundsuitshop.com/
http://www.galembo.com/

On a slightly unplanned trip to Antwerp recently, I visited the ‘Dream the World Awake’ exhibition, a retrospective of Fashion Designer Walter Van Bierendonck, at the Mode Museum. I can’t quite believe I have never come across his work before. Not for the faint-hearted, the pieces really appealed to me throw the satire that is injected into them – every pieced is infused with all sort of different, often humorous remarks. However, what made the exhibition really engaging was the way in which they displayed sketchbook pages as well as images, objects and art that had obviously inspired Bierendonck – ranging from modern art, to throwaway bric-a-brac, and ethnographical images. There was work from Grayson Perry and the Chapman Brothers. It was great to see how the complete chaos of his inspiration had influenced the end result, and not often in a subtle way.

The exhibition is on until the 19th February, so if you happen to be in Antwerp make sure you check it out, even if you aren’t particularly interested in Fashion.

http://www.momu.be/en/index_momu.jsp?layout=momu

Also, check out the great photography and fashion film that accompanied the exhibition, by Nick Knight and stylist Simon Foxton.

http://showstudio.com/project/dream_the_world_awake

Davildelfin’s Spring Summer 2012 collection fresh from Cibeles Madrid’s fashion week is a dream for anyone with a passion for colour. However, the collection draws me in through the way that pops of colour are placed, and used to really enhance the tailoring and silhouettes, all based upon a crisp white canvas.

Images from http://talldarkroast.com/2011/09/17/davidelfin-ss12-collection-cibeles-madrid-fashion-week/

http://www.davidelfin.com/